The Initial Set at a climbing gym is a big undertaking and we didn't want to leave it up to chance. That said The Core Climbing Gym is excited to officially announce that our Initial Set will be brought to you by JC Reinosa and Hamish Thomson from the west coast. We are psyched to have these talented pros in house to kick off the setting program with their style, ethic and skill.
If you don't know who JC Reinosa is you may have climbed on some of his boulder problems. JC grew up in Kitchener-Waterloo and developed his love for bouldering as well as his knack for route-setting at Grand River Rocks. JC has been a key fixture in the southern Ontario climbing scene; route-setting, youth coaching, training, climbing, and being best friends with every person he meets.
He has since been living and setting out of Vancouver at the Hive North Shore. Most recently JC has set Canadian Open nationals in 2016, he has been a key assistant at CEC national series, and coached alongside Christian Core (V16 FAist).
JC is a force to be known. He sets beta-intensive from start to finish. Loves IFSC comp style boulders and has tons of tricks up his sleeve. More importantly he's been a friend to every climber of any ability through his setting and his community involvement.
JC will be accompanied by another Hive North Shore local, Hamish Thomson. Most recently Hamish has played a key role route setting at the 2016 Open and the 2017 Youth Canadian Boulder Nationals at the Hive North Shore. Hamish also causally boulders up to V11 and finished 35th at this year's Open Boulder Nationals in Edmonton. The Core is super excited to have Hamish's talent and strength behind the initial boulder set along with bringing over some of the west coast style of setting and living.
After a long time apart we were happy to steal some time from JC's busy schedule to get a few questions answered before he flies over in April.
What makes you excited to come do the initial set at Core?
JC: Put simply... to set awesome boulder problems. Having a blank canvas to work with makes our job way easier. It gives us as setters the space to allow our creativity to go wild. Secondly, it's exciting to see everything come together from scratch. Walls, desk, paint, signs, and the whole of it. It's something that most people don't get the chance to witness and may not realize that it takes a lot of work and a lot of people behind the scenes to make it happen. I'm excited to play an important role as someone behind the scenes for The Core Climbing gym. Lastly, I'm excited because this will be one of the bigger projects I have done. I feel that there is a lack of young setters getting these kind of opportunities in the industry and the only way Canadian climbing gets better is if Canadian setters step up and put forth the effort to support the up and coming generations through high quality climbing.
What do you want to leave behind before you go back out west?
JC: Asides from fun boulders I would like to leave everyone with a different perspective in route setting. I've learned to set well by forcing myself to think in new ways. I like challenging what's been done before and asking the bigger questions like - What does a 5 star line actually look and feel like? What do I want to set versus what do the members and climbers need me to set? Finally I want to showcase alongside with Hamish that there is a new generation of hungry setters that want to step up to the plate. In order to push Canadian climbing for youth, open, and recreation we as setters need to keep pushing to stay on the forefront and up to date.
Any non-climbing related things people should know about you?
JC: I don't drink coffee... at all. It tastes awful. Same is true with any kind of beer. If I'm not in a climbing gym I'm playing board games or eating sour cherry blasters and Reese peanut butter cups (the big ones) or anything containing mango. Also everyone should know that I'm big on Hip hop music and that I'm definitely not a morning person.
The Core Climbing Gym is extremely excited to bring JC back home for the initial set for the month of April.